Although I don’t have the hatred for Hedi Slimane that Diet Prada does, I still much prefer the Old Céline. If you don’t get the reference, then here we go:
Phoebe Philo was the creative director of Céline from 2008-2018 after her stint at Chloe. She transformed the label from everyday clothing for the rich to collections that truly made a woman feel connected to what she was wearing, and a style that can only be explained as, well, maximalist minimalistic.
Philo-philes, as they call themselves (psh, I’m saying they as if I’m not one of them), all mourned the loss of one of fashions most elusive creative directors – behind Martin Margiela, of course – when it was surprisingly announced in late 2017 that she would be stepping down, with Slimane of YSL taking her place. Fans were outraged at her departure, but some consoled by the fact that The Row and JW Anderson would fill the void. Turns out, that isn’t really the case. People are still turning to eBay and The Real Real to find the coveted and rare pieces from her 10-year run at the company, often paying above retail for the items.
To try and close the gap between Philo-era Céline and, well, anything else, we’ve rounded up some of the best labels to scour for pieces if you’re feeling nostalgic for Phoebe’s designs. Just beware: they likely won’t be (or feel) the same. Truthfully, her designs have an unmatched aesthetic that seemingly can’t be recreated, no matter how hard Mary-Kate and Ashley try, but they’re close enough while you wait years for your size of those black leather flatforms or Madame boots to show up on eBay.
Monse is probably most similar to Philo’s Céline in terms of color, asymmetry, and beautifully deconstructed basics.
Monse Racing Stripe Vintage Pant
Monse Cold Shoulder Split Blouse in Black
Monse Striped Chevron Jersey Dress
Monse Cascade Rip Turtleneck
Monse Giant Cuff Sweater in Metallic Silver
If you’re trying to recreate the neutral tones and distinct look of Old Céline, Lemaire is your best bet for shoes and clothing.
Lemaire V Neck Cardigan Dress in Yellow
Lemaire Light Single Button Jacket in Brown
Lemaire Strappy Heel Sandal
Khaite is heaven for anyone looking for a “basic” sweater that costs $900 but is so worth it.
KHAITE Sienna Sweater in Black
KHAITE Dagny Top in Red
KHAITE Mckenna Long Blazer in Black
KHAITE Sandra Tank in Green
If you’re looking for a basic silhouette with an industrial twist (often in black or white), look no further than Jil Sander.
Jil Sander Bracelet Wallet Bag in White
Jil Sander Scoop Neck Dress
Jil Sander Open Toe Bootie in Black
Jil Sander Hook Zip Wallet Crossbody Bag in Black
Quickly becoming a legend in his own right, Jacquemus’ namesake label has all the exaggerated silhouettes we saw at Old Céline, plus a lot more color.
JACQUEMUS Bahia Shirt in White
JACQUEMUS Rosa Short in Pink
JACQUEMUS Leather Faya Heels in Brown
JACQUEMUS Praio Sweater in Neutral
JACQUEMUS Arancia Short in Orange
From the pillow bags to the Tabi’s, Margiela is also a cult-status minimalist brand that Philo-philes are bound to love.
Maison Margiela Glam Slam Shoulder Bag in Red
Maison Margiela Cutout Chunky Cardigan in Blue
Maison Margiela Light Brushed Tabi Boot in Black
Maison Margiela Utility Pant in Neutral
If you loved the minimal-yet-genius feel of Philo-designed handbags, check out Mansur Gavriel.
Mansur Gavriel Fringe Bucket in Neutral
Mansur Gavriel Drawstring Pouch in Blue
Mansur Gavriel Mini Fringe Bag in White
Mansur Gavriel Pleated Bucket in Yellow
The resurrected brand perfectly illustrates the ultra-tailored look of Céline.
Mugler Tailored Blazer in Black
Mugler Detail Dress in Black
Mugler Large Ear Cuff in Metallic
Mugler Abstract Top in Multi
You know the very few times Philo used colors, patterns, and odd textures? Petar Petrov is basically that, in one place.
Petar Petrov Haena Wide Leg Leather Pant in Brown
Petar Petrov Dedra Front Bow Dress in Brown
Petar Petrov Hansville Pant
Petar Petrov Leather Rita Skirt in Neutral
Reike Nen is a detail-oriented, but somehow still simple, shoe brand that is definitely Philo-approved.
Reike Nen Curved Middle Slingback in White
Reike Nen Unbalanced String Sandal in Black
Reike Nen Square Ribbon Half Boots in White
Reike Nen Asymmetry Turnover Heel in White
HL is almost identical to Céline when it comes to oversized and exaggerated pieces.
Helmut Lang Logo Coat
Helmut Lang Crew Neck Sweater
Helmut Lang Combo Zip Sweatshirt in Black
Helmut Lang Turtleneck Sweater in White
Where prints and silver are somehow in the same realm as muted neutrals, Acne Studios is on par with Philo in terms of design and high quality fabric.
Acne Studios Beatrice Mules in Black
Acne Studios Katrina Tank Top
Acne Studios Niola Print Tight
Missed the crinkle earrings or chunky hoops? Fay Andrada has you covered.
Fay Andrada Tayeh X-Large Earrings in Metallic Gold
Fay Andrada Harja Earrings in Metallic Silver
Fay Andrada Pallo Necklace in Metallic Gold
Fay Andrada Koko Medium Hoops in Metallic Gold
Cover Photo Via @oldceline
Words by Kate Sullivan